Use of fats to replace silicone in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition free of silicone wherein the composition contains a fatty compound comprising an oil selected from the group consisting of 
     (a) dialkyl ethers, 
     (b) dialkyl cyclohexanes, 
     (c) Guerbet alcohols, 
     (d) polyol polyhydroxystearates, and 
     (e) hydroxycarboxylic acid esters.

This is a 371 of PCT/EP97/02866, filed Jun. 3, 1997.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

This invention relates to the use of selected fatty compounds as asubstitute for silicones in the production of cosmetic and/orpharmaceutical preparations.

2. Discussion of Related Art

Silicones are used in skin and hair cosmetics as additives forinfluencing feel and luster. Unfortunately, the so-called build-upeffect of silicones is a disadvantage. By this is meant that, whensilicone-containing products are repeatedly applied to the skin or tothe hair, a layer of polymers builds up and is difficult to removesimply by washing. In the case of hair in particular, this layer ofpolymers is undesirable and can interfere with other treatments, forexample waving or dyeing. An overview of the use of silicones incosmetics was published, for example, by K. Schnurrbusch inSeifen-Fette-Öle-Wachse 100, 173, (1974).

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was toprovide silicone substitutes which would not build up in use, but whichwould still show at least comparable performance properties in regard tofeel and luster.

2. Description of the Invention

The present invention relates to the use of fatty compounds as asilicone substitute in the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceuticalpreparations which is distinguished by the fact that oils selected fromthe group consisting of

(a) dialkyl ethers,

(b) dialkyl cyclohexanes,

(c) Guerbet alcohols,

(d) Guerbet carbonates,

(e) ester oils,

(f) polyol polyhydroxystearates and/or

(g) hydroxycarboxylic acid esters

are used.

It has surprisingly been found that the sensorial evaluation of theselected oils in regard to feel and luster is at least as good as thatof silicones without any unwanted build-up effect on skin and hair.

Dialkyl ethers

Dialkyl ethers which form component (a) correspond to formula (I):

R¹—O—R²   (I)

in which R¹ and R² independently of one another represent a linear orbranched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 22, preferably 8to 18 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The ethers may have anasymmetrical structure, although they preferably have a symmetricalstructure. Typical examples are di-n-octyl ether, di-i-octyl ether anddi-n-stearyl ether.

Dialkyl cyclohexanes

Dialkyl cyclohexanes which form component (b) correspond to formula(II):

R³—[C]—R⁴   (II)

in which R³ and R⁴ independently of one another represent a linear orbranched alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 6 to 22, preferably 8 to18 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and C is a cyclohexylgroup. Typical examples are di-n-octyl cyclohexane, di-i-octylcyclohexane and di-n-stearyl cyclohexane.

Guerbet alcohols

Guerbet alcohols which form component (c) are preferably obtained bybase-catalyzed self-condensation of linear and/or branched alcoholscontaining 6 to 22 and preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms. An overview ofGuerbet alcohols was published by A. J. O'Lennick in Soap Cosm. Chem.Spec. (April) 52 (1987). Typical examples are condensation products oftechnical fatty alcohol cuts containing 8 to 10 or 16 to 18 carbonatoms.

Guerbet carbonates

Guerbet carbonates which form component (d) are normally obtained bycomplete or partial transesterification of dialkyl carbonates withlinear and/or branched alcohols containing 6 to 22, preferably 8 to 18and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms [cf. U.S. 5,387,374 (Henkel)].Typical examples are carbonates which are obtained bytransesterification of dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate withfatty alcohols containing 8 to 10 or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, preferablyoctanol or cetearyl alcohol.

Ester oils

Ester oils which form component (e) are long-chain esters liquid at roomtemperature which correspond to formula (III):

R⁵CO—OR⁶   (III)

where R⁵CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atomsand R⁶ is an alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 12 to 22 carbonatoms. Typical examples are esters of caproic acid, caprylic acid,2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid,myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearicacid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenicacid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof with lauryl alcohol,isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleylalcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidylalcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol,eleaostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixturesthereof. Ester oils which contain at least 24 and preferably at least 30carbon atoms and one double bond in the fatty acid and fatty alcoholcomponent together are preferred. Typical examples are oleyl erucate,erucyl oleate, behenyl oleate and cetearyl oleate.

Polyol polyhydroxystearates

The polyol component of the polyol polyhydroxystearates which formcomponent (f) may be derived from substances which contain at least 2,preferably 3 to 12 and more preferably 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are

glycerol and polyglycerol;

alkylene glycols, such as for example ethylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, propylene glycol;

methylol compounds, such as in particular trimethylol ethane,trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol anddipentaerythritol;

alkyl oligoglucosides containing 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 8 and morepreferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as for examplemethyl and butyl glucoside;

sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as for examplesorbitol or mannitol,

sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as for example glucose orsucrose;

amino sugars, such as for example glucamine.

Among the substances which form component (f), reaction products basedon polyglycerol are particularly important by virtue of their excellentperformance properties. It has proved to be of particular advantage touse selected polyglycerols with the following homolog distribution (thepreferred ranges are shown in brackets):

glycerol: 5 to 35 (15 to 30)% by weight

diglycerols: 15 to 40 (20 to 32)% by weight

triglycerols: 10 to 35 (15 to 25)% by weight

tetraglycerols: 5 to 20 (8 to 15)% by weight

pentaglycerols: 2 to 10 (3 to 8)% by weight

oligoglycerols: to 100% by weight

Hydrocarboxylic acid esters

The last component (g) is selected from esters of hydroxycarboxylicacids containing 3 to 18 and preferably 3 to 12 carbon atoms withaliphatic alcohols containing 1 to 22, preferably 6 to 18 and morepreferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are esters of lacticacid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, ricinoleic acid and/or12-hydroxystearic acid with methanol, ethanol, caproic alcohol, caprylicalcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol,isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleylalcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidylalcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol,elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenylalcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixturesthereof. It is preferred to use long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids, suchas ricinoleic acid and hydroxystearic acid, with short-chain alcohols,for example methanol or ethanol, or short-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids,such as lactic acid or citric acid, with long-chain fatty alcohols, suchas for example cocofatty alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

Surfactants

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the sensorial propertiesof the fatty compounds can be further improved by mixing with nonionicsurfactants, preferably of the alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosideand/or fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamide type. In this embodiment, the fattycompounds and the nonionic surfactants may be used in a ratio by weightof 10:90 to 90:10, preferably in a ratio by weight of 25:75 to 75:25 andmore preferably in a ratio by weight of 40:60 to 60:40.

Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are known nonionic surfactants whichcorrespond to formula (IV):

R⁷O—[G]_(p)   (IV)

where R⁷ is an alkyl and/or alkenyl radical containing 4 to 22 carbonatoms, G is a sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is anumber of 1 to 10. They may be obtained by the relevant methods ofpreparative organic chemistry. U.S. Pat. No. 5,374,716 and U.S. Pat. No.5,576,425 are cited as representative of the extensive literatureavailable on this subject.

The alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be derived from aldoses orketoses containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. Accordingly,the preferred alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and/oralkenyl oligoglucosides.

The index p in general formula (IV) indicates the degree ofoligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- andoligoglycosides, and is a number of 1 to 10. Whereas p in a givencompound must always be an integer and, above all, may assume a value of1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is ananalytically determined calculated quantity which is generally a brokennumber. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree ofoligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. Alkyl and/oralkenyl oligoglycosides having a degree of oligomerization of less than1.7 and, more particularly, between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred from theapplicational point of view.

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R⁷ may be derived from primary alcoholscontaining 4 to 11 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examplesare butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol andundecyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof obtained, forexample, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters orin the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyloligoglucosides having a chain length of C₈ to C₁₀ (DP=1 to 3), whichare obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical C₈₋₁₈coconut oil fatty alcohol by distillation and which may contain lessthan 6% by weight of C₁₂ alcohol as an impurity, and also alkyloligoglucosides based on technical C_(9/11) oxoalcohols (DP=1 to 3) arepreferred. In addition, the alkyl or alkenyl radical R⁷ may also bederived from primary alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 12 to14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol,oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol,gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol andtechnical mixtures thereof which may be obtained as described above.Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C_(12/14) coconut oil fattyalcohol having a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides

Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are nonionic surfactants whichcorrespond to formula (V):

where R⁸CO is an aliphatic acyl radical containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms,R⁹ is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing 1 to 4carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radicalcontaining 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The fattyacid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known compounds which maynormally be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar withammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation witha fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.Processes for their production are described in U.S. Pat. No. 1,985,424,in U.S. Pat. No. 2,016,962 and in U.S. Pat. No. 2,703,798 and inInternational patent application WO 92/06984. An overview of thissubject by H. Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988).

The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derivedfrom reducing sugars containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, more particularlyfrom glucose. Accordingly, the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides whichcorrespond to formula (VI):

Preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are glucamidescorresponding to formula (VI) in which R⁹ is hydrogen or an alkyl groupand R⁸CO represents the acyl component of caproic acid, caprylic acid,capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleicacid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid,petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleicacid, behenic acid or erucic acid or technical mixtures thereof. Fattyacid N-alkyl glucamides (VI) obtained by reductive amination of glucosewith methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C_(12/14)coconut oil fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularlypreferred. In addition, the polyhydroxyalkylamides may also be derivedfrom maltose and palatinose.

Commercial Applications

The silicone substitutes are suitable for the production of cosmeticand/or pharmaceutical preparations, preferably skin and hair treatmentpreparations, for example hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths,cremes, lotions or emollients. They may also contain emulsifiers,superfatting agents, stabilizers, waxes, consistency regulators,thickeners, cationic polymers, silicone compounds, biogenic agents,antidandruff agents, film formers, preservatives, hydrotropes,solubilizers, UV filters, dyes and perfumes as further auxiliaries andadditives.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from atleast one of the following groups:

adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 moles ofpropylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbonatoms, with fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and withalkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;

C_(12/18) fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 molesof ethylene oxide with glycerol;

glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters ofsaturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atomsand ethylene oxide adducts thereof;

adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and/orhydrogenated castor oil;

partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturatedC_(12/22) fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid andglycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugaralcohols (for example sorbitol) and polyglucosides (for examplecellulose);

trialkyl phosphates;

wool wax alcohols;

polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and correspondingderivatives;

mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fattyalcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and

polyalkylene glycols.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide withfatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol monoesters anddiesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of fatty acids or withcastor oil are known commercially available products. They are homologmixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to theratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxideand substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18)fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide withglycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic formulations fromDE-PS 20 24 051.

In addition, zwitterionic surfactants may be used as emulsifiers.Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain atleast one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and onesulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionicsurfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivativeknown under the CTFA name of Coco-amidopropyl Betaine is particularlypreferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers.Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in additionto a C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino groupand at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholyticsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularlypreferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine. Besidesampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers may also be used, thoseof the esterquat type, especially methyl-quaternized difatty acidtriethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

The superfatting agents used may be such substances as, for example,lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin andlecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fattyacid alkanolamides, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.Suitable consistency regulators are, above all, fatty alcoholscontaining 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, inaddition, partial glycerides. These substances are preferably used incombination with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid-N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerolpoly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example,polysaccharides, more particularly xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar,alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycolmonoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for exampleCarbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides,polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, forexample, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids withpolyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane,narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides andelectrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloseavailable under the name of Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, forexample, Luviquate® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols andamines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example,Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat®L Grünau),quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic siliconepolymers such as, for example, Amidomethicone, copolymers of adipic acidand dimethyl aminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®,Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammoniumchloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides as described,for example, in FR-A 225840 and crosslinked water-soluble polymersthereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternizedchitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensationproducts of dihaloalkyls such as, for example, dibromobutane withbis-dialkylamines such as, for example, bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane,cationic guar gum such as, for example, Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17,Jaguar® C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as,for example, Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methyl phenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine- and/or alkyl-modified siliconecompounds which may be both liquid and resin-like at room temperature.Typical examples of fats are glycerides while suitable waxes are interalia beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax ormicrowaxes, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, forexample cetostearyl alcohol, or partial glycerides. The pearlescentwaxes used may be, in particular, mono- and difatty acid esters ofpolyalkylene glycols, partial glycerides or esters of fatty alcoholswith polybasic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids. Suitablestabilizers are metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example,magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate. Biogenic agents in thecontext of the invention are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherolacetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, retinol, bisabolol,allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, plant extracts and vitamincomplexes. Suitable antidandruff agents are climbazol, octopirox andzinc pyrethion. Typical film formers are, for example, chitosan,microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone,vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof and similar compounds. In addition, hydrotropes such as,for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols may be used toimprove flow behavior. Suitable preservatives are, for example,phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbicacid. Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved forcosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication“Kosmetische Färbemittel” of the Farbstoffkommission der DeutschenForschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106,These dyes are normally used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% byweight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives may be from 1to 50% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, based on theparticular formulation. The formulations may be prepared by standardcold or hot processes and are preferably produced by the phase inversiontemperature method.

EXAMPLES

Various hair shampoos containing the silicone substitutes according tothe invention (formulations F1 to F7) or silicone (comparisonformulation F8) were evaluated for feel and luster on a scale of 1(=pleasant soft feel, brilliant luster) to 5 (=hard, dull) by a panel of20 volunteers in the known half-head test. For qualitatively determiningthe build-up of the oils on the hair, hair tresses were alternatelytreated with the test formulations and dried 10 times and then reducedto ashes. A heavy build up of oils is indicated by the symbol (+) in theTable whereas the symbol (−) indicates the absence or substantialabsence of oils. The results represent mean values.

TABLE 1 Hair shampoos: feel and luster (quantities in % by weight)Components F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 Sodium Laureth 15  SulfateCocoamidopropyl 3 Betaine PEG Distearate 3 Dicaprylyl ether 1 — — — — —— — Dicaprylyl — 1 — — — — — — cyclohexane Octyldodecanol — — 1   — — —— — Octyldodecyl — — — 1   — — — — carbonate Oleyl erucate — — — — 1 — —— PEG hydroxystearate — — — — — 1 — — Oleyl lactylate — — — — — — 1 —Dimethicone — — — — — — — 1 NaCl 0.5 Water to 100 Evaluation (half-headtest) - Feel 2   2.5 2.5 1.5 2   1.5 2   2.5 - Luster 1 1 1.5 2.5 2 2 23 - Build-up — — — — — — — +

Hair aftertreatment formulations F9 to F15 and comparison product F16were tested in the same way. The results are set out in Table 2.

TABLE 2 Hair aftertreatment formulations: feel and luster (quantities in% by weight) Components F9 F10 F11 F12 F13 F14 F15 F16 Cetearylalcohol 3Cetrimmonium 4 chloride Glyceryl 3 Stearate Dicaprylyl 1 — — — — — — —ether Dicaprylyl — 1 — — — — — — cyclohexane Octyldodecanol — — 1 — — —— — Octyldodecyl — — — 1 — — — — carbonate Oleyl erucate — — — — 1   — —— PEG — — — — — 1 — — hydroxystearate Oleyl lactylate — — — — — —   1 —Dimethicone — — — — — — — 1 NaCl 0.5 Water to 100 Evaluation (half-headtest) - Feel   2.5 2   1.5   1.5 2.5 1 2.5 3 - Luster 1   1.5 1 2 2.5 22.5   3.5 - Build-up — — — — — — — +

The panel tests show that the use of the fatty compounds according tothe invention leads to formulations which, when applied to the hair, arejudged to be better than the comparison formulations containingsilicones and which, at the same time, have the advantage of no build-upeffect.

What is claimed is:
 1. In a cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositionselected from the group consisting of hair shampoos, hair lotions,cosmetic or pharmaceutical creams, cosmetic or pharmaceutical lotions,cosmetic or pharmaceutical emollient compositions, wherein saidcompositions contain at least one of the following auxiliaries and/oradditives; an emulsifier, a superfatting agent, a stabilizer, a wax, aconsistency regulator, a thickener, a cationic polymer, a siliconecompound, a biogenic agent, an antidandruff agent, a film former, apreservative, a hydrotrope, a solubilizer, a UV filter, a dye, aperfume, the improvement wherein the composition contains: I) a nonionicsurfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl or alkenyloligoglycosides and fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides; and II) afatty compound wherein said fatty compound consists of an oil selectedfrom the group consisting of a) polyol polyhydroxystearates; and b)hydroxycarboxylic acid esters wherein said fatty compound and saidnonionic surfactant are present in a ratio by weight of 10:90 to 90:10;and III) wherein the total quantity of auxiliaries and/or additives inthe composition is from 1 to 50% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 2. A composition as in claim 1 wherein component II, is apolyol polyhydroxystearate.
 3. A composition as in claim 1 whereincomponent II, is a hydroxycarboxylic acid ester comprising esters ofhydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms with aliphaticalcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
 4. In a cosmetic orpharmaceutical composition selected from the group consisting of hairshampoos, hair lotions, cosmetic or pharmaceutical creams, cosmetic orpharmaceutical lotions, cosmetic or pharmaceutical emollientcompositions, wherein said compositions contain at least one of thefollowing auxiliaries and/or additives. an emulsifier, a superfattingagent, a stabilizer, a wax, a consistency regulator, a thickener, acationic polymer, a biogenic agent, an antidandruff agent, a filmformer, a preservative, a hydrotrope, a solubilizer, a UV filter, a dye,a perfume, the improvement comprising: I) the composition contains anonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl oralkenyl oligoglycosides and fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides;II) the composition is free from silicone components; III) thecomposition contains a fatty compound consisting of an oil selected fromthe group consisting of a) polyol polyhydroxystearates; and b)hydroxycarboxylic acid esters; wherein said fatty compound and saidnonionic surfactant are present in a ratio by weight of 10:90 to 90:10;and IV) the total quantity of auxiliaries and/or additives is from 1 to50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 5. A compositionas in claim 4 wherein component (III) is a polyol polyhydroxystearate.6. A composition as in claim 4 wherein component (III) is ahydroxycarboxylic acid ester comprising esters of hydroxycarboxylicacids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms with aliphatic alcohols containing1 to 22 carbon atoms.
 7. The composition of claim 1 wherein said ratioby weight is from 25:75 to 75:25.
 8. The composition of claim 1 whereinsaid ratio by weight is from 40:60 to 60:40.
 9. The composition of claim4 wherein said ratio by weight is from 25:75 to 75:25.
 10. Thecomposition of claim 4 wherein said ratio by weight is from 40:60 to60:40.
 11. The composition of claim 1 wherein the total quantity ofauxiliaries and/or additives is from 5 to 40% by weight.
 12. Thecomposition of claim 4 wherein the total quantity of auxiliaries and/oradditives is from 5 to 40% by weight.